Cuisine: Southeast Asian, predominantly Thai.
Atmosphere: Situated just off the main tourist drag of Váci utca at the Szabadság bridge end, the Bangkok House serves traditional Thai food in an L-shaped cellar heavily decorated in the Rattanakosin style, the typical style of 19th-century Bangkok, with teakwood and Buddha masks abounding. The place is unpretentious. The focus is on the food rather than the surroundings.
Whom to take: Anyone that enjoys Southeast Asian food will be happy enough here. The menu is extensive, containing both classic Thai dishes and seafood specialties such as crab and tiger prawns, as well as a very wide selection of vegetable and tofu dishes for vegetarians or those simply tired of meat. Clientele is a mix of Hungarians, local Asians and tourists. A three-course business lunch for Ft 2,000 looks good value.
What we ate: Although the wide menu has plenty to choose from, we handed ourselves over to the owner and see what he brought. We were not disappointed.
We began with classic Thai starters, lovely light and crispy popia rolls with a spicy garlic dip, plus grilled chicken satay. Then followed a sour and spicy fish soup for me, and coconut and chili chicken for my companion. The latter was highly spiced with lemongrass, ginger and chili and tasted wonderful – tender chicken and crisp vegetables in a spicy coconut broth. My soup was made with assorted river fish, with the catfish coming through the strongest, all enveloped in a spicy and sour broth with just a dash of coconut milk. Delicious.
Although similar in many respects, the major difference between Thai and Vietnamese food is that Thai is spicier. In fact, sometimes the overuse of chili can make it too hot. Thankfully, the levels here were just right.
To follow we were brought slivers of beef with onions and bamboo shoots, flavored with coconut milk and chili. The meat had been flash-fried after having clearly been marinated for a long time, and truly melted in the mouth.
Next, we were served a whole mackerel, which had been deep-fried in its skin and came with a sweet and sour sauce and stir-fried vegetables. Again, it was delicious; the strongly flavored fish stood up to the taste of the sauce, and had a lovely crisp texture.
Plain boiled rice was served with the dishes – the perfect accompaniment to the strongly spiced food.
Wine list: The wine list is limited to mid-range Hungarian wines – perfectly drinkable, but not a reason to come on its own. That said, in a Thai restaurant, you’re more likely to want to drink beer, soft drinks or tea. The Bangkok has good draft beer, plus a varied selection of bottled brews.
Service and value: Service was unobtrusive yet attentive. A four-course dinner for two that we couldn’t finish, plus a few draft beers each to deaden the chili, came to Ft 10,000 (€39) – perfectly reasonable considering the quality.
FROM THE MENU Ft
STARTERS & SOUPS
Popia – crispy spring rolls with dip 550
Satay – grilled sliced pork or chicken on skewer with curry and coconut milk 750
Tom Kha Kay – chicken Soup with lemongrass, chili and coconut milk 850
Thod Pla Muk – grilled squid with chili 1,450
MAIN COURSES
Keng Kio Wan Kay – green chicken curry 1,750
Ped Phad – sliced duck stir-fried with chili and coconut milk 1,950
Ngua Phad Kaphao – sliced beef sautéed with basil and chili 1,650
Kung Ping – grilled king prawns with lemon and chili sauce 4,550
Nok Thod Katean Picthai – fried quail with garlic and pepper 4,250
DESSERTS & DRINKS
Fried banana 650
Draft Maes lager (0.5l) 600
Etyek Chardonnay (0.75l) 2,550
THE REVIEWER
Nguyen Minh Anh, an asset manager at private bank SPB Investment Rt, says that growing up in a country with a 2,500-kilometer coastline meant that fish was an integral part of his childhood diet.
Hailing from Hanoi, which he regards as one of the greatest cities in the world, Nguyen Minh says that while fish in Hungary doesn’t quite compare with Vietnam, he has developed a taste for a good spicy halászlé.
In general, he says Asian food in Hungary is now quite good, adding that as more and more special ingredients are imported, the food will start to more closely resemble what he gets at home.
While admitting that he does not have a lot of free time, Nguyen Minh says that when the chance does arise he enjoys traveling, reading and socializing. He also says that he enjoys the positive business environment he has encountered in Hungary.
Despite having spent many years in Europe, Nguyen Minh says his heart remains in Vietnam, not least in culinary terms, and he is currently investigating a variety of business opportunities to strengthen ties between Hungary and his home country.
A mathematician and technical market analyst by training, Nguyen Minh says that while his passion still remains the buzz of inter-day trading, his work at SPB tends to focus on a much longer investment horizon. SPB offers private banking services to institutions, and what Nguyen Minh terms “high net worth individuals.”
District 5, Só u. 3
Tel: 266-0584
Open daily,
11 a.m.–11 p.m.
Eurocard,
Mastercard, Visa
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24.05.2004