"Now this is lunch: Civilized but unpretentious, quick but not rushed, all at a well-chosen location in what is known by Dining Companion as “the banking district.” And the air in there is full of scents of basil and sage.The subject on the reviewer’s menu today is Goldberger Bistro, a sandwich-slinging, breakfast-making (really) little place that will surely remind Americans of the best-loved hangout in their college town. Just start with the beverage list: Goldberger’s got milkshakes, smoothies, jasmine tea and fresh-squeezed carrot juice.
This place even gets right down to the random pair of comfy red armchairs and the right-hand wall of the dining area is glass, replete with glass door leading to… a Central European University art gallery. Seeing some obscure Spanish-language publication with a cover story on “hemp” made me think, “Toto, I think we’re in Albuquerque again…” Seriously, you half-expect some dude over there to be ardently blustering slightly too loudly about Nietzsche to a flummoxed coed.
Though the accent at Goldberger is decidedly on the lunch side, the bistro actually opens at 7:30am. Why more eateries don’t open this early, particularly in downtown Pest, remains a mystery to this restaurant addict, but Goldberger works this to its advantage, offering breakfast starting at that hour.
The breakfast offerings are all centered on eggs, naturally: The “Mediterranean” is essentially an omelet with tomato; the “English” is egg and bacon (What, no spam, spam, baked beans and spam?); the “Continental” is egg and cheese – you get the idea. Goldberger also has some pretty decent muffins and “pain au chocolat,” also known as the “csokis croissant,” and if there’s a mortal alive who can resist this goodie (at Ft 240, mind you), he/she has more willpower than I. The coffee is, happily, good and strong.
And onto lunch. The standard menu is mostly the sort of sandwich-and-soup selection (handwritten in chalk on a board posted behind the counter – brilliant!) you’d expect. Those willing to try something more ambitious, however, can refer immediately to the menu of the day. On the Wednesday we attended, daily specials were a rosemary-celery pear soup, chicken breast stuffed with goose liver (see what I mean about ambitious?) and a broccoli-zucchini-chicken pasta dish.
As this writer (impressed at the sub-Ft 500 price or no) was daunted by the likes of pear soup, I instead turned to the dozen sandwich items, a less challenging proposition. Dining Companion and I ordered up a whole mess of stuff – avocado and bacon; mozzarella and eggplant; roast beef; chicken and grilled vegetables. Hey, at Ft 520 to Ft 890 for the larger version of the sandwiches, it was easy.
We – and some starving members of BBJ editorial – were not disappointed. Mostly. The avocado and bacon got high marks, as did the roast beef with nice fresh veggies. Goldberger’s mozzarella and eggplant may become one of my favorite sandwiches. Just about as good was the chicken and grilled vegetable sandwich.
Several of the sandwiches on the menu include a pesto sauce; pounce on these. Said green sauce had vim and vigor, zip and zest, whatever other alliterative combination you want to throw out, it’s in there.
The sole unfortunate news in Goldberger land is a question of bread. You’ve got a choice of one here: Baguette. Please, Goldbergers, if you’re reading this, can you give those that love you one or two more exciting options?
Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m heading back to Goldberger. I’ve got work to do on my ultimate treatise examining the works of Jean-Luc Godard films. Or maybe some poetry. I hope a red chair is free…
From the menu
Daily specials
Soup Ft 480
Entrée Ft 1250-1450
Pasta of the day Ft 1090-1190
Salads
Tuna salad Ft 820
Chicken Caesar salad Ft 820
Caprese salad Ft 890
Sandwiches
Three-cheese and veggies Ft 650
Mozzarella eggplant Ft 690
Chicken and roasted
vegetables Ft 750
Smoked salmon Ft 890
Roast beef Ft 890"
By David Landry
Address: District V. Arany János u. 32
Phone: 30-647-8580
Open: Mon-Fri 7:30am-8pm, Sat 9am-7pm
Source:
BBJ
13.09.2007