'Stylish New Italian Eatery' By Andreea Anca

Donatella’s, written on the outside in eye-catching lights, offers an extravagant and sleek combination of wood and suede, as well as copper, all topped by the intriguing antler chandeliers hanging above the few round tables. 

Like it or not, this sort of interior is a rare sight even amongst the cosmopolitan restaurants in Budapest, and one that evokes a more famous Italian woman, Donatella Versace, and her exuberant style.Donatella’s Kitchen is, indeed, like a glamorous woman: keen on appearance, she looks irresistibly exclusive, but, as you might expect from someone like that, she doesn’t cook the most exciting meal you’ve ever had. Still, the excitement of spending a little time with her might overcome the average culinary experience that she offers.

Donatella Zampoli – the head chef behind the kitchen’s closed doors, as well as one of the owners – is said to be a Michelin-starred chef. Yet, on closer inspection, the food delivered to us by attentive waiters did not stand out to that extent.
In any case that rumor, confirmed to us by the staff the night we had dinner there, seems to attract a healthy clientele, which is no small accomplishment for an establishment that opened its doors only a little more than a couple of months ago.

Our starters – the cold summer tagliolini pasta with light lemon sauce sprinkled with golden salmon caviar on top (Ft2,500) and crème parmesan risotto served with sliced smoked goose breast (Ft1,250) – made a stronger statement with the presentation than with their slightly bland taste. 

A limited budget and a keen anticipation of desserts, made the two of us order only one main dish: the oven-baked monk fish served with delicate sauce of fresh spinach and morel mushrooms (Ft4,900). 

The fish was a little chewy and not so easy to cut, and I also wondered where the distinctive spinach flavor of the sauce had gone. Could it have been lost in too much added cream? 

My companion’s tiramisu (Ft1,080) was good without being outstanding, but I had no complaints about my tender and super creamy panna cotta (Ft1,080) which stood there on my plate for a short while only, looking small and pretty, surrounded by fresh and colorful berries. Together with several bottles of water and two glasses of wine – the Chianti Castiglioni (Ft740) and Tokaji Dobogó Furmint (Ft960), the bill came to a solid Ft17,500, with the tip included.

Traditional checkered tablecloths and a long list of affordable pizzas (Ft1,000-2,000), baked in the wood fire stove at the back of the room, broaden the appeal of Donatella’s Kitchen, and add a little more substance to this stylish new restaurant."

Donatella’s Kitchen
Király utca 30-32,
Pest, District VI
Tel: (+36/1)878-0515
Open: Mon-Sun, noon to
midnight

Atmosphere: ***
Quality of food: ***
Service: ****
Value for money: **

Source: Budapest Sun