The Véndiák has been remodeled several times over the past few years and now adds its modern façade to the newly-renovated square. Egyetem Tér (University Square) boasts lovely tan marble paving throughout its area. There are even a few small fountains to enliven the ambience, along with benches and other resting places for the weary students to sit and smoke after a hard day studying torts and contracts.

Véndiák looks out on the square’s activity like an old mother hen, watching the students and strollers pass by. When one does stop for a coffee or lunch, however, the changes in the restaurant become evident. Prices have increased, naturally, as they have most places in the city. Unfortunately, the value one used to receive here has not risen with the prices.

I found my place at an outdoor table in the sun, the better to watch the unfolding street scene. I decided to try the chicken burger with fries, a light repast, and one I remembered from previous Véndiák incarnations. To be sure, when my meal arrived it looked good: a high-stacked bun filled with what looked like all sorts of goodies and were, in fact, lots of lettuce, tomato, and onion – in other words, fillers.

The chicken was about a quarter-inch thick (or thin, as the case may be) and was just that other side of chewy so as not to excite the diner’s tastebuds. In addition, the serving of nice, thick fries was rather on the skimpy side; I guess Véndiák’s management doesn’t want to fill the lunchtime tummies of all those would-be lawyers so they won’t doze through their afternoon classes. As for me, I was underwhelmed.

But then, I suppose, one doesn’t patronize Véndiák for its food and drink. One pays rent at a table to sit in the sun and watch the street parade, maybe to read a book and sip a cold drink while working on the first light suntan of the summer. In which case, Véndiák is the place to go in the Kálvin Tér area. See you there.

Words by Gary Lukatch for XpatLoop.com