Wine tourism is becoming increasingly popular in Hungary, and it’s becoming better organized every year. Most winemakers are eager to give tours of their wineries and to offer tastings of their wine, which always seems to taste better when it’s poured by the person who created it.

Still, even in Villány and Tokaj—the two most important (and best-organized) wine regions—things are not always tourist-friendly. In less-visited regions, it can even be downright difficult to visit wineries. But it can be done with some planning. It pays to organize your trip at least a few weeks in advance to minimize wasted time, and having a flexible attitude is invaluable. No matter what a winery’s official opening hours are (if they even have any), they tend to be flexible. I always recommend calling ahead for an appointment, but it can’t hurt to pop in if you happen to be there.

“We won’t throw you out if you show up without an appointment, but we would prefer some advance notice,” is what many wineries told me.

Part of the pleasure of visiting Hungarian wineries is their sheer variety. One day a winemaker himself may give you a casual tour, drawing wine straight from the casks. The next day you could be part of a group being led on an organized tour of an entire estate—from the vineyards and the fermentation rooms to the bottling plant and the cellar. Some wineries have PowerPoint presentations and props to explain the winemaking process.

Others get few tourists and will tell you little, but will pour lots of wine. Many of the smaller wineries don’t have dedicated tasting rooms, and often a member of the winemaker’s family will be your guide. Visiting a mix of both small family wineries and big producers will give you an idea of what winemaking in Hungary is like at both ends of the spectrum.

Most larger wineries have tasting programs, which usually include between four and eight wines (or more). Some wineries can arrange for snacks—or even complete meals—with advance notice. In Hungary, pogácsa and mineral water are the usual accompaniments at tastings. But if a winery has its own kitchen or restaurant, I highly recommend you pre-arrange a meal there rather than taking your chances on finding a good nearby restaurant.

When wineries do serve food, it’s usually traditional Hungarian dishes served family-style. Otherwise, winemakers also give great restaurant recommendations (which is handy because good restaurants can be hard to find in the countryside). Many wineries also offer accommodation at their guesthouses (panzió), which are friendlier places to stay than the local hotel.

While wine regions are exciting places to be during the harvests, smaller wineries may be too busy to accept tourists at this time of year. Many wineries have at least one person who speaks English, but some don’t. Unless you’re interested in very specific details, you’ll probably find that it doesn’t much matter if your host speaks your language. Don’t be afraid to dump your wine, even if no one else does. Spit buckets aren’t always offered in Hungary, so just ask for one if needed. Most importantly, remember that Hungary has a zero-tolerance policy for driving under the influence of alcohol. That means that drinking even just one glass of wine is illegal if you’ll be getting behind the wheel. Random police checks are common.

This is an excerpt from Chapter 11 of The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Hungary: With Budapest Restaurants and Trips to the Wine Country, by Carolyn Bánfalvi. Text is copyright © Carolyn Bánfalvi and Park Kiadó, and is reproduced with permission. To find out more or to purchase the book, contact Park Kiadó or Carolyn Bánfalvi. Photos are copyright © Carolyn Bánfalvi, and are not from the book.