Restaurant Review: La Perle Noire In Budapest
- 27 Jul 2017 10:00 AM
Already before reaching the door, the restaurant does not disappoint. The inviting terrace has great views of the boulevard, which you can enjoy even in the greatest of heatwaves; classy, but not overdone.
The tasteful interior makes sure that the positive impression continues after stepping through the door. The design is straightforward, and while many restaurants and bars fail to create a homely environment, in La Perle Noire you can feel the personal touch and the love the owners have for their establishment.
"The décor is in the hands of my life companion Szilvia Szarvas", explains the visibly proud owner András Gendur. The two have been running the place together since 2014 and you can tell that both are experts in the restaurant business. "I come from the hotel sector, Szilvia is a gastronome, so we know what matters in both aspects," Gendur says.
As La Perle Noire is located just below a four-star hotel, the breakfast for the hotel guests comes straight from the restaurant. And while as a result of the hotel, most of the guests are one or two-timers, the owners made it their mission not to make the design or the menu boring for their regulars.
While the décor is Szarvas’ responsibility alone, putting together the menu is a team effort. Every six to eight weeks the restaurant has a new menu, but preparations for this begin long before the new offerings are presented to the public.
"Our chef puts a menu together, which then we discuss,” Gendur says. “Maybe he wants to make something out of lamb, but it is possible that the previous menu already had similar items. Then we try to figure it out what to use instead.”
If the menu is finished on paper, the kitchen cooks it from entrees to the three desserts and the food is tasted and evaluated by the entire team. But taste is not the only important aspect. “It doesn’t matter if the dessert tastes and looks beautiful, if our waiters cannot bring it safely to the table, it will ruin the experience of the guests,” he says. And that is what’s most important at La Perle Noire: offering guests the best possible service.
Enjoying the experience
András and Szilvia love gastronomy, this much is clear immediately. But a look at the menu tells the story that in La Perle Noire it is really about the guests. There are plenty of offerings for vegans, of course all allergens are listed and it also reflects the latest trends.
This despite the fact that Gendur is convinced that concentrating on experimentation is not the right way to go. He instead believes that the surroundings and the food must be created for guests to simply enjoy their experience. One example of this is the open-air champagne and grill terrace, which awaits patrons during summer.
Snacking in a restaurant between lunch and dinner is a not a very common activity in Hungary, but the couple see it as their task to not only to bring new flavours but also new trends to the country. The idea this year is to offer champagne and oysters in the afternoon.
"Even in the biggest of heats, it is a combination that is not too difficult to enjoy," says Gendurs. And unlike in most restaurants, champagne can be ordered by the glass in La Perle Noire. "We want to give our guests the opportunity to sample a wide range of tastes to find out what their favourite is."
The owners are happy to take the risk of “leftover bottles”, because the most important thing for them “is to offer our guests the best possible experience". If all you know is that you love things that sparkle – prosecco, sparkling wine or champagne – the restaurant will help you with your selection.
If you like food a little bit heavier on the stomach, the terrace grill of La Perle Noire will take care of you with classics such as T-bone and ribs, but also offers easier dishes like grilled veggies and seafood.
The dualities of La Perle Noire: elegant and at the same time cosy. Light summer cuisine and hearty steaks. Seating with views of the vibrant Budapest and only a few steps away romantic, quiet and private tables in the hidden part of the garden.
No matter what someone is looking for, the owners and their team will undoubtedly do everything they can to meet the high expectations. As a guest there is nothing left to do but sit back and enjoy, because La Perle Noire is definitely the place to do just that.
La Perle Noire
Address: District VI, Andrássy út 111.
Entrées from HUF 2100
Main courses from HUF 4200
Snacks from HUF 2600
Desserts from HUF 2200
Source: The Budapest Times
Republished with permission
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