Uniquely Hungary: Restaurant Gundel's Good Old Magic, By Anne Zwack
- 3 May 2016 9:00 AM
When I made my first fleeting visit to Budapest in 1975, the Gundel Restaurant was a burnt out husk: the grandiose old restaurant which took its name from Károly Gundel in 1910 had been destroyed by fire. The next time was in the late eighties when the restaurant had been rebuilt and redecorated according to the criteria of the Soviet era in fifty shades of brown. Gaggles of waiters loitered in doorways apparently oblivious to the pleading gaze of their guests. Portions overlapped the plates with bosoms of white rice crowned by a cockerel’s curled crest of ridged bacon while the Fogas arrived baked like a boomerang.







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